Mandolines range from a few pounds to well over a hundred, and the differences are not obvious from a product photograph. A first purchase is easier to get right by focusing on four things and ignoring most of the rest.

One: Blade Quality and Replaceability

The blade is the tool. A sharp blade slices cleanly with light pressure; a dull one tears, requires force and is consequently more dangerous, since force is what causes slips.

Japanese stainless steel is the benchmark for this category. More important still is whether replacement blades are sold, because blades are consumables and a slicer without spares becomes waste when the edge goes. Catalogues of Japanese slicers such as benriner list blades as interchangeable components, which is the arrangement to look for.

Two: Bed Width

This determines what fits, and it is the specification most commonly underestimated. A narrow bed handles carrots and courgettes; cabbage, large potatoes and anything wide will not fit.

Japanese slicers are typically offered around 6.4 cm, 9.5 cm and 12 cm. For a first purchase in a general kitchen, the mid-size is the sensible default, since the compact model is limiting and the jumbo takes considerable drawer space.

Three: Adjustment and Stability

• Continuously variable thickness rather than two or three fixed positions
• An adjustment that holds its setting rather than drifting during use
• Non-slip feet, or a design that rests securely across a bowl
• A body rigid enough not to flex under pressure

A slicer that moves while in use is both frustrating and hazardous. Where the feet are inadequate, a damp cloth underneath solves it.

Four: The Guard

Every mandoline includes a hand guard, and their quality varies enormously. A guard that grips food poorly gets discarded, and a discarded guard is the strongest predictor of injury with this tool.

Check that the guard has genuine prongs or teeth that hold produce securely rather than a smooth plate that slips. Where possible, buying a cut-resistant glove at the same time is a small additional cost with a large benefit.

What Not to Prioritise

Large accessory sets with many blades, most of which will not be used. Elaborate multi-function designs requiring assembly. Aesthetic considerations, since the tool lives in a drawer.

Wave and crinkle blades are entertaining and rarely used after the first month. Julienne blades, by contrast, do get used and are worth having.

Setting Expectations

A mandoline is not a general-purpose tool. It slices, it julienne cuts, and it does neither on anything with a stone, a hard core or an irregular shape.

Bought with that understanding, it is one of the most useful things in a kitchen. Bought expecting it to replace a knife, it will disappoint. The two work together rather than competing.